Creality Ender 3 V2 Resources
The community has put out a lot of good content on the Ender 3 V2, which we are proud to share and give credit for. We have gathered the best resources at one spot for fellow Ender 3 V2 users.
Assembly of the Ender 3 V2 can be daunting, especially if it is your first printer. Here is a detailed guide by Chuck at CHEP, as well as some maintenance tips. Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors also made an excellent video, we recommend that you check them all out before beginning assembly.
IMPORTANT: Set your power supply voltage accordingly! For Australia and Singapore, this is 230v!
Jyers has made and is maintaining an incredible firmware suite, covering most use cases. If you're not sure which to get, and have no mods yet, get "E3V2-ManualMesh-3x3-v4.2.7.bin".
Give it an "Auto Home" after flashing. If it moves as expected, congratulations!
If not all axes move properly, don't panic, simply download the v4.2.2 firmware, and flash again.
Help, get help from, and participate in discussions with fellow users! There's some overlap, feel free to join 'em all!
How to flash Firmware on the Ender 3 V2
Occasionally, new firmwares come with new assets and a separate firmware for the touchscreen, which MUST be flashed together. This will be noted in the releases.
- Turn off the printer.
- Load the firmware file (.bin) onto your SD card root directory.
- Insert the SD card into the printer.
- Turn on the printer.
- You should see "Creality" with a progress bar. Simply wait for it to complete!
- If there are prompts asking to reset EEPROM, we recommend going with "YES".
- If it came with accompanying touchscreen firmware, watch this video by Creality.
How to best level my bed?
There are 2 major parts to this, start with a traditional corner-leveling, where you adjust bed height physically with the springs underneath, and finish with firmware-driven mesh levelling where you adjust height through the software.
Before you start, ensure that the nozzle has at least 5 cm distance from the bed, tighten the springs underneath to about 90% tightened, and turn on Preheat PLA for both Nozzle and Bed (200 °c and 60 °c, respectively).
Part 1: Corner Levelling
- Go to Motion > Bed Levelling (scroll all the way down) > Level Corners.
- With a standard piece of paper between the nozzle and the bed, keep it constantly moving with one hand, and increase the bed height with the other.
- Stop when you just feel the paper catch. It should still be able to move, with friction, between the nozzle and bed.
- Click Next on the touchscreen.
- Repeat steps 3-4 until you no longer need to adjust bed height through the spring. It’s normal to do ~5 rounds on your first levelling before finding consistency.
Part 2: Mesh Levelling
- Motion > Bed Levelling > Bed Levelling.
- Going negative here means the bed goes UPWARDS.
- At each spot, repeat levelling like above with a paper, except this time you adjust height through the touchscreen, do no touch the physical springs.
- When you are done, ensure that “Level Bed:” is “On”, and do a test print.
Part 3: Bed Height Adjustment
- Monitor the test print’s 1st layer – if it doesn’t stick, go to Tune > Babysteps, and go negative until it does. The settings are applied “live”, i.e. you don’t need to back out of the screen to apply.
- When you’ve found the right babysteps, remember the number. After the print is complete, go to Motion > Bed Levelling > Bed Z, and input the value there. Scroll down to “Save Settings”.
- Sometimes “Level Bed:” option turns off or is hidden. When this happens, simply “Auto Home” and come back to the menu, it will be visible again. Our Start G-Code conveniently automatically enables this before each print.
- Typically, when you make minor changes to your hotend/nozzle (e.g. from a MK8 to V6 nozzle), this is the only value you need to update. For large-scale modifications, such as changing the hotend, hotend mounting, or the build plate, you should start over from Corner Levelling.